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Since Doyle & Doyle’s founding in 1998 by sisters Elizabeth and Irene Pamela Doyle, they’ve showcased a beautifully curated selection of vintage, antique, and estate jewelry. Led by the Doyles’ love of history and design, Doyle & Doyle also serves as a resource for the community to discover the rich history of jewelry and personal adornment. In this tradition, we are excited to introduce The Vault, an ongoing series of exhibitions of curated collections around a theme.
For the debut exhibition, we’re honored to have Lynn Yaeger co-curate an exquisite selection of vintage and antique accessories. Lynn is a celebrated fashion journalist, antique jewelry collector, and one of Doyle & Doyle’s earliest supporters. Her style, wealth of knowledge, and passion has influenced us throughout the years. In her words:
“A hundred years ago, jewelry didn’t just mean rings and brooches, earrings and bracelets. The category was flexible enough to accommodate not just gold mesh purses but diamond hair barrettes, tiny golden notebooks with miniature cabochon-topped pencils, 18 karat eyeglass frames, and crystal mystery clocks – objects so glorious, so ingenious, so desirable that even now, so many decades later, we can only gasp in wonderment at the splendor of these creations.
They may have been insanely extravagant, but at least these wondrous accessories were meant to last forever – gold belt buckles would be endlessly affixed to different leathers and ribbons, a dowager’s lorgnette could enlarge print for generations. There’s a cleverness, almost a craziness, to some of the items that found their way into pockets and atop dressing tables. We hope you enjoy this collection gathered by Doyle & Doyle – a gorgeous testament to the way the most unexpected objects can be elevated to the realm of art.”
1. Art Deco Enamel Compact – gold, sterling silver, rose cut diamond, and jadeite. French. Centering a stylized flower pot design with carved jadeite leaves, rose cut diamonds and enamel. Compartments for rouge, powder & lipstick. Circa 1925. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
2. Art Deco Ankh Powder Compact – gold, platinum, diamond, and enamel. With gold wire detail in enamel. Circa 1925. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
3. Edwardian Enamel Compact & Lipstick – gold, platinum, diamond, and guilloché enamel. Tiffany & Co. Bright yellow guilloché enamel with black enamel borders – the compact centering a platinum medallion with diamond. Circa 1915. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
4. Edwardian Compact with Mesh Wrist Strap – gold, sapphire, and freshwater pearls. Engraved on inside – Stevenson Hotel, Detroit. Circa 1915. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
5. Victorian Walnut Compact – sterling silver. With mirror, powder puff, and scent bottle, this charming piece would have originally hung from a chatelaine. Early 20th century. Present scent bottle from later period. A chatelaine is a form of jewelry worn at a woman’s waist in which chains are suspended with hooks and rings to hang various household items, including keys, small vessels, and scissors or sewing kits. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
6. Mid Century Emerald Compact – gold and emerald. Italian. Textured gold set with emerald cut emeralds of varying size and cabochon emerald push, all weighing approximately 8 carats. Circa 1960. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
7. Art Deco Geometric Cigarette Case – gold and black enamel. In a geometric design, possibly English. Circa 1930. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
8. Vintage Lipstick Case – gold, ruby. Italian. Textured gold with ruby push. Circa 1960. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
9. Art Deco Woven Straw Clutch – rock crystal, onyx, rose cut diamond, and black enamel. Cartier, France. Exquisite clutch with carved rock crystal, onyx, and diamond clasp. Late 1930s. Courtesy of Roy Rover Antiques.
10. Vintage Minaudière – sterling silver and gold. Gucci, Italy. Complete with mirror, comb, lipstick, powder, and rouge. Circa 1970. A minaudière is a small bejeweled clutch or vanity case which holds cosmetics and other small personal items. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
11. Edwardian Mesh Purse with Compact – gold, sapphire, and freshwater pearls. Beline & Glasser, New York. Complete with mirror and powder puff, adjustable wrist strap. Circa 1910. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
12. Vintage Diamond and Mesh Evening Bag – gold, diamond, and sapphire. Featuring approximately 10 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds, with sapphire and diamond clasp. Circa 1960. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
13. Victorian Mesh Horseshoe Coin Purse – gold, rose cut diamond, and calibré cut sapphire. Originally would have hung from a woman’s chatelaine. Circa 1900. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
14. Vintage Tri-Color Gold Heart Pill Box – pink, green, and yellow gold. Early 20th century. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
15. Retro Gem-Set Compact – gold, diamond, and calibré cut ruby. Gutenstein Bros., New York. Gold compact set with calibré cut rubies and round brilliant cut diamonds. Circa 1950. Doyle & Doyle.
16. Vintage Gem-Set Engraved Box – sterling silver, amethyst, and citrine. Highly engraved, filigree box set with oval citrines and round amethysts. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
17. Vintage Gem-Set Souvenir Cigarette Box – sterling silver, ruby, sapphire, and emerald. French. Box engraved with map of European cities studded in cabochon rubies, sapphires & emeralds. Note the use of the city name “Petrograd,” dating this box to the period between 1914 – 1924. Doyle & Doyle.
18. Antique Scent Bottle – crystal, gold, and diamond. Etched crystal base with chased gold flip cap, complete with rose cut diamond push. Circa 1880. Doyle & Doyle.
19. Antique Scent Bottle – faceted glass, gold, and enamel. French. With classical, floral gold overlay. Inscription in gold on white enamel, reads: “L’amitie vous l’offere” – translating to: “The friendship you offer”. Circa 1770. Doyle & Doyle.
20. Victorian Crystal Scent Bottle – crystal, gold, diamond, ruby, and sapphire. Gold fitted cap set with cushion cut diamond, sapphire, and ruby. Originally would have hung from a chatelaine. Partially obscured maker’s mark, possibly for Riker Bros. Newark, New Jersey. Circa 1880. Doyle & Doyle.
21. Edwardian Lorgnette – white gold and diamond. With engraved scroll and wheat design. Circa 1910. A lorgnette is a pair of eyeglasses, usually hinged inside a decorative case and suspended from a chain. Lorgnettes were used from the late eighteenth century through the 1930s. Doyle & Doyle.
22. Art Nouveau Lorgnette – gold. Krementz, New Jersey. Repoussé floral design. Circa 1900. Doyle & Doyle.
23. Art Nouveau Lorgnette with Chain – gold and diamond. Krementz, New Jersey. Repoussé pansy design set with an Old European cut diamond. Circa 1900. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
24. Victorian Handkerchief Clip – gold and black enamel. In the taille d’épargné style of black tracery enamel work, the clip is suspended from a chain with finger ring. Circa 1880. Doyle & Doyle.
25. Antique Snake Buckle – gold, sapphire, and diamond. French. The head set with a cabochon sapphire, Old European, and rose cut diamonds. Circa 1890. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
26. Victorian Gem-Set Buckle – gold, diamond, and sapphire. In the Etruscan Revival style. Circa 1870. Doyle & Doyle.
27. Victorian Match Safe – gold and diamond. Ornate, repoussé scroll design centering an Old European cut diamond in bloomed gold. Circa 1880. A match safe is a small portable box with a snap-shut cover, designed to hold short matches and keep them dry. Match safes typically have a ribbed surface, usually on the bottom, for striking the matches. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
28. Retro Diamond Purse Watch – gold and diamond. Verdura. Petite purse opens up to reveal rectangular watch on swivel mount, face signed VERDURA. Maker’s mark for Louis Tamis on case. Probably served as a travel watch. Circa 1950. Doyle & Doyle.
29. Retro Pill Box – gold and mother of pearl. Chaumet, Paris. Gold cylinder pill box with mother of pearl inset top. The airtight and moisture proof case was specifically used for nitroglycerin pills and could be worn on a necklace, bracelet or keychain. Circa 1945. Doyle & Doyle.
30. Vintage Ivory and Gold Whistle – ivory, wood, and gold. 20th century. Doyle & Doyle.
31. Vintage Telephone Dialer – sterling silver. Tiffany & Co. Popular in the 1950s and 60s for use with rotary dial phones. Made even more popular by the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s when Paul Varjak (George Peppard) considered giving Holly Golightly (Audrey Hepburn) one as a gift, from the famed jewelry store. Retailing at that time for about $6, they were a favored housewarming gift. Circa 1960. Doyle & Doyle.
32. Vintage Hardstone Mosaic Lighter – gold, malachite, lapis, onyx, tigers eye, jasper, and rose quartz. Circa 1970. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
33. Art Deco Aide Mémoire – gold, with notepad and mechanical pencil. Original box. Cartier, London. Hand engraved with date on inside “June 1935”. “Aide mémoire” translated literally means “memory aid.” As an accessory, it is a small notebook inside a decorative case, often with the addition of a pencil. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
34. Antique Frame – gold, freshwater pearl. Pearl frame, hand engraved with date on reverse “August 15th, 1854”. Made from an antique brooch. Courtesy of Roy Rover Antiques.
35. Antique Frame – gold, diamond, and enamel. With guilloché enamel and Old European cut diamond frame, hand engraved with date on reverse “Jan 21st, 1904”. Made from an antique brooch. Courtesy of Roy Rover Antiques.
36. Antique Frame – gold, diamond, and freshwater pearl. With Old Mine cut diamond and pearl frame. Circa 1880. Made from an antique brooch. Courtesy of Roy Rover Antiques.
37. Victorian Rose Cut Diamond Hair Ornament/Pin – silver topped gold, diamond, and pearl. The diamond flower, set en tremblant (on a spring), so that as the wearer moved, the diamonds would shimmer in the evening candlelight. The flower also converts to a pin, with the ivory handled screwdriver included for conversion. Circa 1870. Doyle & Doyle.
38. Antique Diamond Hair Comb – gold, platinum, diamond, and horn. French. In the garland style, set with a rose cut diamond border, in platinum and gold. Horn comb. Circa 1905. Courtesy of Roy Rover Antiques.
39. Vintage Juliet Cap – gold and cultured pearl. Gold chain net set with pearls. Worn for an evening event or possibly as a wedding head piece. Circa 1960. A Juliet cap is a woman’s skullcap, often made of elaborately decorated mesh or lace, and used for semiformal and bridal wear. Courtesy of D&E Singer.
40. Victorian Gem-Set Parasol Handle – gold, diamond, ruby, and emerald. Set with oval, round, and cushion cut stones in an engraved floral motif. Hidden compartment (possibly a powder compact) with mirror. Early 20th century. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
41. Victorian Parasol Set – rose quartz and turquoise handle with silver gilt parasol tips. Edward & Son, Regent St., London. Rose quartz handle studded with cabochon turquoise and silver gilt, floral engraved band with French marks. Original box. Circa 1880. Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
